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Nothing Michelle Nussbaumer had seen in San Miguel de Allende, the romantic Spanish Colonial city in Mexico’s Bajío mountains, was pleasing her exacting eye. “I want something unusual,” the Dallas decorator told a real-estate agent a dozen years ago, at the start of her search for a getaway. “A ruin, even.” Instead, she found herself trudging through glossily renovated houses that were “just plain weird.” One afternoon Nussbaumer spotted a dilapidated wall and

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